Hope Pro 2 Evo Front Hub


Hopes Pro 2 has


Showing 1-2 of 2  
[Apr 22, 2015]
Cross Country Rider


Nice finish, rather cheap, easy to convert from standard quick release axles (5mm) to QR20, easy to get to the bearings.


Inherent design flaw that puts axial load onto to inner bearing races that will lead to premature failures. Rather slim and expensive bearings of type 6(1)804 2RS as required by the conversion option.

After about 3 1/2 years of moderate riding (approx 10'000km), one of the two front bearings (S6804 2RS, #10 in the explosion plot found at http://cdn.hopetechnology.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/ProIIEvoFrontExploded.pdf) made klicking noises and was generally running a bit rough. After removing the two 9mm RWS spacers (#4), I could move the centre tube (#2) with almost no force using my index finger. That kind of loose fit could have created axial force on the inner bearing reals, leading to early failure.

Hope support writes back: "The Pro 2 Evo front hub is designed so that the centre tube is slightly loose when the wheel is out of the fork. This is to enable it to be moved to the side, exposing the bearings inner race so that it can be drifted out when it need replacing. Once the wheel is tightened into the fork the centre tube becomes tight as the hub is pulled together." which I consider an alibi statement.

Every halfways talented mechanic can use a bearing puller without a slack spacer tube. If necessary, the manufacturer could have added two little notches at opposite sides of the diameter (one end is sufficient) of the tube as a possibility to place your drift there.

I rather believe that the conversion option is the culprit and the Pro 2 Evo was designed with a focus on customers with a QR20 axle. The downside of this is, that the bearing needs to be unnecessarily large and thin for the 5mm quick release option which impairs load capacities (dynamic load rating: 3.95kN, static load rating: 2.3kN) in comparison to a more compact one. Not to mention leverage effects.

Ontop of that, the QR20 axle system works differently in one major respect: It doesn't produce any axial force during the clamping procedure by design, identical to most motorcycle wheel axles. So as long as axial clearance between the QR20-standard fork legs is not way out of spec, no mentionable static axial load is applied to the inner bearing races.

With the quick release system, however, you're having several kN of clamping force to keep the wheel in place, which is quite considerable if you know the E-module (aka. Young's modulus) of an aluminum spacer tube that has an ID of 20mm and ~1mm of wall thickness. Even, if it would be a tight fit, which it in fact isn't - for dubious reasons.

To acount for those forces, normally a C3 spec bearing is chosen. For a 61804 bearing (dimensions 20x32x7mm) the C3 tolerance adds about 20um of axial clearance and hence about 10x that number of radial clearance. This would be 200um or 0.2mm, more than enough to take any compressions, be it because of manufacturing tolerances, the clamping force, because of temperature differences or bearings not ideally seated. But that choice obviously was not the case.

Hope says: "Also, bearing life is subjective, usage/conditions etc, and it would not be unusual for a bearing to need replacing after 10,000Km over 3 1/2 years.".

I translate: A best case life expectancy (did I mention, that the hub is in mint shape, OEM grease not contaminated, aluminum spacer tube not corroded and bearing seals/O-rings like new?) of a Hope Pro 2 Evo hub being advertised with "Unsurpassed reliability" (http://www.hopetech.com/product/pro-2-evo-front-hub) is about 3 1/2 years and 10'000km of casual riding. Good to know. I guess DT-Swiss would be pretty embarassed to say something likewise about their products.

So here's what to do if your Hope hub fails like mine:

1. Manufacture a stainless steel spacer tube (AD 22mm, thickness 1mm or whatever fits) of correct length, i.e. one that doesn't flop around between the bearings.

2. Replace the bearings by standard steel 6(1)804 2RS C3 from FAG/INA/SKS/Koya or whatever manufacturer you can get your hands on. Don't pay 10 bucks or more for a single stainless steel bearing. It's not worth it.

3. Revise your hub (pretty easy to do), grease well and keep an eye on what happens.

I wouldn't be very surprised if the result holds up much longer that one meagre year beyond end of warranty.

Similar Products Used:

DT-Swiss Onyx and Cerit. Varous cone bearing hubs from Shimano that all sucked because the needed constant adjustment and failed nevertheless.

[Oct 12, 2012]
All Mountain Rider


Ease of service
Lack of need for servicing =o)
Ease of conversion


More color options? How about green, orange or purple?

Anything made by Hope is fantastic. You will likely never have any need to fiddle with your Hope hubs, but if you do, the parts and tools are readily available and the servicability of these are super-simple.

Similar Products Used:

DT, Hadley

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